Serra dos Órgãos

The Serra dos Órgãos National Park impresses with the beauty of its vertiginous rocky mountains that rise amid the dense and rich Atlantic forest. The tropical climate of altitude and the biodiversity of the local fauna and flora are other points of interest of the region besides the mountains. The park “can be divided” into two areas according to the vegetation and climate. As we gain altitude, the vegetation changes from Atlantic forest to altitude fields and the temperature drops by around 10ºC and in winter can reach – 5ºC! In the altitude fields, near Pedra do Sino, the highest point of the park with 2265msnm, it is located the refuge “Abrigo 4”, which is open year-round to climbers and mountaineers. The main attractions are the God’s Finger as the national landmark, the Devil’s Needle located in the heart of the park and the crossing Petrópolis – Teresópolis, the classic trekking in Brazil, with approximately 30 km crossing the mountains through the most beautiful tropical mountain scenery. Most of the tracks in the mountain range follow chimney systems and body crevices, so it is recommended that the climber has experience with this specific technique and does not have claustrophobia (extreme fear of confined places). For acclimatization in chimneys, we recommend the “Chaminé Stop” climb at Pão de Açúcar in Rio de Janeiro. Contact us!

The God’s Finger stands as a landmark of national mountaineering. Conquered in 1912, it was considered the first technical climb performed by a team of Brazilians. Its location on the edge of the mountain range impresses! Although relatively technically easy, its approach is steep and technical, climbing follows a system of wide cracks and chimneys requiring good physical and psychological prepartion.

The Devil’s Needle was considered one of the 15 best climbs in the world, both for the beauty of its formation and for the adventure of the venture. Located in the heart of the park, this mountain is also known for its difficult access requiring good logistics and physical conditioning. The best and most rewarding strategy for this work is 2 days: 1 day for approach (14 km) and preparation, and another for climbing and return. We camped in a small clearing at the bottom of the Paquequer valley, a rare and preserved place. At night, the temperature usually drops a lot and due to humidity, a good sleeping bag is imperative.


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